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Creole food and architecture were born here in NOLA. New Orleans was founded in 1718 and it's unique history is what forms this amazing culture. It originated as a French colony, was sold to the Spanish in 1763. It was reclaimed briefly by the French only to be sold to The USA in the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. During this time slave trade from the Caribbean was a significant business leading to the unique blend of Caribbean and French culture, architecture, and cuisine.
The historical aspect of New Orleans can keep you busy all day long. Much of the downtown part of the city has been preserved and restored. You find restaurants and bars in buildings with unbelievable history and fascinating stories. The walking and ghost tours are a great way to get further exposure to the history and people behind the buildings. The above ground cemeteries and mausoleums are fascinating. The plentiful museums could keep you busy for weeks. There is just do much rich history to enjoy here.
The food is incredible. The seafood and Creole cuisine has no limits. NOLA is a place you can find the most unbelievable street food or the most unforgettable gourmet prix fixe meal..and everything in between. The first time I visited I was worried about coming to the south with my allergy and finding gluten free food. Luckily this has not been a problem and I've been amazed at the restaurant's that provide specialty menus or at the very least, gf options on their regular menu.
We absolutely love this city. There's so much to do whether you're here for Mardi Gras or any other time of year. If drinking and partying isn't your jam how about unbelievable history, food, and culture? They've got it all. Did I mention they have music here? You'll literally find Jazz music every night of th week on every street corner, so bring your dancin shoes.
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We love wine, to Chef it up & celebrate all the time! Hence the famous saying; "laissez les bon temps rouler" LOL :)'
Right around the corner is the annual 4 day long culinary Food & Wine Show! Featuring top chefs, dozens of local restaurants & fine wines from all around the world all in the name of charity!
Whether you're a wine enthusiast or just a beginner you will LOVE this SHOW! :)…
The New Orleans Wine & Food fest is a must visit FEAST! Food & wine lovers alike from all over the US & the world meet in NOLA for seminars, tastings, intimate wine dinners & just plain FUN!
FYI: you def don't want to skip the Royal Street Stroll! Proceeds go to a variety of culinary nonprofits, from food banks to culinary schools. A great way to give back if you support the culinary Arts! A win win for everyone!
If you haven't visited NOLA during the festival season what are you waiting for?! The yummiest festival of all Time is a short drive away people! :)..
New Orleans Wine & Food March 18-22, 2020
Top Taco! What we have been training for people!Lol :)..
March 19, 2020
Buku Music + Art Project March 20-21, 2020
Mardi Gras Indian Super Sunday
March 22, 2020
Tennessee Williams Literary Festival March 25-29, 2020
Hogs for the Cause (Chefs galore cooking porky goodness!!!)
March 27-28, 2020
French Quarter Festival !
April 16-19, 2020
Freret Street Festival !
April 4, 2020
Jazz and Heritage Festival! My Fave! A Jazz Paradise!
April 23-26 and April 30-May 3, 2020
Bayou Boogaloo
May 15-17, 2020
Greek Fest
May 22-24, 2020
Trem茅/7th Ward Arts and Culture Festival
May 22-24, 2020
"laissez les bon temps rouler" God Bless everyone! Have a great summer!
Highly recommend.
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When my two sons were too young to fly alone to go see their Dad-I would fly with them and stay in a Hotel or AirBNB and stay the weekend and have a blast. There's something about N.O. that is mystical. I highly recommend for anyone to go there, but just be careful, be aware.
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I haven't been to Mardi Gras. At this point in my life I don't care to party. Let me sit quietly in a Jazz Club. My Yelp Friend May took the best Mardi Gras photos I've ever seen this week of February 23, 2020. Check them out.
I'm posting photos of my favorite New Orleans activities. You're just getting a sample. I've got too many Cemetery and Food photos. I was very pampered one visit to New Orleans. I visited a friend who took me on a tour of the attractions. Friends or not, it's a wonderful experience every time.
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Considering the tragic events of its past, and global warming with the city losing a football field per hour, I visited this city concerning that one day it might be completely submerged under water.
If you are an optimist, NOLA has an epic food scene with one of the most inventive and tasty restaurant scene in all of United States. Of course its music and jazz history is awe inspiring. And if you are a sports fan, you'd already NOLA has it all. Of course, there is also the ever famous WW2 Museum. Not to mention fan favourites of the French Quarter and Mardi Gras.
I came for the time-sensitive architecture but bumped into a serendipity of great food, friendly people and interesting culture. Would visit again in a heartbeat.
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I have been to NOLA twice. Being perfectly honest, I did not like it the first time. I actually ended up staying there one day less than anticipated. I was on a road trip so it did not matter much for my itinerary.
The second time I was in NOLA I really enjoyed my time there. I really liked eating at House of Blues. I don't particularly enjoy spicy or Cajun food but they still have some great restaurants to choose from. I got a much better feel for the city the second time I was there. It is so alive and the people who live and work there are fantastic. My favorite part of the experience in NOLA is by far the music. The musicians are incredible and I could sit all day listening to them. They are so talented and I believe NOLA has the best live entertainment in the country.
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Before the $hit hit the fan (literally) that evening after a full day of drinking, my son had it together enough to call an Uber and get his Dad and I back to our hotel (we were the sober ones of the group). So we missed the worst of it, but I still shudder remembering events of the afternoon. And laugh as well, cause it's funnier in hindsight. Maybe I should write a movie script and sell it? Trust me…it would put a Chevy Chase vacation to shame.
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Why is New Orleans nicknamed the "Big Easy" … it's because of the easy-going way of life. This was my first time in New Orleans and I must say that it was just how I envisioned it to be from photos and seeing it on television… lots of history, lots of food, lots of alcohol and a diverse scenario of cultures and communities. Yeah, the locals have their own way of communicating. Our meal ended with a "lagniappe" at Hard Rock Cafe!
We came on a Labor Day weekend and we stayed at the beautiful Le M茅ridien New Orleans Hotel. Basically, we only had 1-1/2 full days spent in NOLA and these were the places and tours we enjoyed… definitely not enough time to do everything we wanted to do but made the best of the short time we did have.
TOURS and Sightseeing:
French Quarter
Bourbon Street
Haunted History Tours
Adventures in New Orleans Tours
EATS:
Acme Oyster House – Harrah's
Hard Rock Cafe New Orleans
Cafe Du Monde
Kilwins
Outside of NOLA:
Ultimate Swamp Adventures
Wego Market and Westwego Shrimp Lot
New Orleans is one of the most walkable "tourist" cities in the U.S. i should've done my research because had we known this we wouldn't have rented a car. In the French Quarter you can walk to everything as it is very compact. Our hotel charged $45/day for valet parking. They have no parking for guests. Parking lots and garages charge by the hour and it adds up. Tours offered hotel pick ups. It's expensive to keep the car in the garage as opposed to driving to your location and paying cheaper parking rates. It's almost as if we have to keep moving. The car was useful when we drove to Mississippi for an afternoon trip. We learn through adventures and next time we know better.
Where y'at?
Review #1498
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My 2 cents:
Most (not all), of the reviewers here raving over how awesome New Orleans is haven't lived here long. I notice a majority rate the place based on their experience while visiting the city on vacation.
I ofter hear…..oh. I just fell in love with this city after I came down and helped the rebuilding of Katrina.
You people really missed out on the Good New Orleans. Pre-Katrina
Then:
Drinking age: 18 (until 1996)
Smoke away anywhere
Average cost of 1bed apartment – $350-$400
12 inch poboys – $2.99 – 6.99
Bourbon Street was a lot safer
Grocery stores remained open 24 hours
Bars open 24 hours
What's an open container law????
No problem flashing those t!ts for beads
Cops were laid back
Mardi Gras was fun
Zulu was all black.
New Orleanians ran the city
Crime sucked near the Projects
Public Schools sucked
City rich in history
Shitty streets
High taxes
School names that everyone recognized
Cold drinks, huh bruh, yeah you right, how's yo mama and dem?
Now:
Drinking age 21
No smoking anywhere
1 bedroom apt – $1200+
12 inch poBoy- ain't dere nomore
10 inch poboy- $9.99-18.99
Bourbon Street crime – high
Grocery stores close at 11p – prices shot up
Bars close early –
Open container laws in New Orleans and surrounding Parishes. Watch out
Flash for beads = felony and reg as sex offender
Lots of NOPD newer to city
Mardi Gras is dangerous
Political BS screwed up Mardi Gras krewes
New Orleanians left the city. Check Slidell, Picayune, Covington.
Snowflakes and the new city population run all the tourist traps.
Crime sucks everywhere
Schools still suck
Shitty streets
High taxes
School names that no one recognizes.
Like, um. Like this like that….. I'm so like NOLA
On a positive note: we have the best fishing and crabbing on this side of Maryland.
Unless you like heat, humidity, crime, shitty schools, large flying cockroaches and over priced food and homes, then bring the kids. Move on in and later regret it.
If you like the occasional drunk weekend and laid back atmosphere and food you dont find in Detroit and Los Angela's, then please come visit and leave. I promise you will always love this city.
I've lived in several other states and had to move back due to family reasons. Once that passes, I'll be the next one to be known as the former New Orleans native that left.
Now
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Be aware of the cameras!
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NOLA is tons o' fun! There's so much here to see, do, and EAT! It's been my happy place, often, and now that I live so close, I frequent as often as possible!
The history and culture here can really suck you in! Second line bands and the random mini parades are my FAVE! As far as my favorite spots, I have to name :
The Pisco Bar
The Sazerac
Cafe Du Monde, duh!
Studio BE
The Country Club
Sucre — ALL locations
Monkey Board
Creole Creamery
— just to name a few!
Now, the only thing I absolutely detest about New Orleans is the severe dirt (we could do better, right?!) and street potholes! (Do not drive here if you're preggo and at risk of your water breaking– geesh. You could seriously pop a tire in these parts!)
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The city itself seems like it's thriving with so much to experience during the day & night plenty of bars, restaurants to keep u entertain.
Biggest difference I noticed now was that Bourbon street is a hot mess with a lot of construction going makes walking around in the area a little difficult but not impossible. Over all this city has a great spirit so much fun to visit.
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I go to New Orleans with friends and family for the food and the parties. Not to shop for clothing. But apparently I am not normal in that respect as someone has to be buying a hell of a lot of men's clothing to support this many stores.
I'm always tempted, but I'm not really an impulse buyer so whenever I accidentally walk into one of these places, it doesn't take long to snap and realize, wait a second, I didn't come here to buy clothes.
Fun town indeed. History galore and nice people abound.
WICKED AWESOME FOOD!
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. Creole House – heavily lauded by a group of 3 tourists
. A cheesecake and omelette spot on St. Charles (The Camellia Grill, probably)
. Frank's instead of Central Grocery & Deli for a muffaletta
Most breakfast places seem to open at 7am. So if you need food earlier than that, you might want to seek out a 24 hour spot.
You know, if I lived in New Orleans, with all the cheap beignets to be had (Morning Call in the park calleth!), I think I'd weigh double.
There's a taxi cab rate from New Orleans to and from Louis Armstrong International Airport – $36 for 1-2 passengers, $15 each 3 or more. So the cabbie would have no benefit to taking you the long route to or from the airport. Otherwise it is $3.50 1st 1/8 mile, 30 cents each additional 1/8 mile, with a dollar charge per additional passenger, and additional charges for ferriage (what's that?) and bridge fees.
Took us about 25 minutes from airport to hotel by Canal Street in the early afternoon.
Street cars are a good way to travel along the street car tracks. There are 5 lines:
The Saint Charles Streetcar Line
The Canal Street Line
The Riverfront Line
Loyola/UPT Line
Rampart/Saint Claude Streetcar Line
I took the Canal Street Line accidentally to the cemeteries, then re-routed to get to the City Park. The next day I took a short ride down the Saint Charles Streetcar Line. All within a 24 hour period. So my 6 rides (5 on Canal, 1 on St. Charles) only cost me a $3 all day Jazzy Pass, while single trips are $1.25 each – cash only please. There's also a $9 3 day pass and $55 31 day pass.
RTA signs are posted to mark the Canal Street red car line's stops, while yellow horizontal "Car Stop" signs and yellow painted lines block out passenger areas on the streets with the stops for the St. Charles green car line.
Some Local Foods to try:
beignets
pralines
char broiled oysters
po 'boys
red beans and rice
jambalaya
gumbo
muffaletta
king cake (seems to be seasonal)
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Add to that the cameras everywhere snapping your car pic for "violations" in all parts of town in order to try and make their budgets. All that does is make me spend less elsewhere and make less trips in overall. That and the statue decision made by a few for the many caused an extended 6-8 month gap for us which cost them a few grand at a minimum.
Still a lot of positives in the food and entertainment arena which is the main reason we visit at all. WWII Museum is best in class. Pels and Saints fun to watch. Magazine is great. Streetcar line awesome.
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My boyfriend and I pretty much had 4 days to go through this entire city which, if you think about it, is hardly enough time at all. We had arrived a week prior to go on the Carnival cruise to Cozumel and Progresso and then back up to finish off the vacation in New Orleans!
Easily some of the best food I've eaten. Naturally, you need to try Cafe Du Monde — I had never tasted heaven until I had tried one of their signature Beignets. And then of course there are such local treasures:
-Deanies
-Acme Oyster House
-Cafe Beignet
-Palace Cafe
and many more! We visited all the local stores, museums, art galleries, and local parks/local flavor, but four days just wasn't enough time for me to adequately try all the things I wanted to do here. We were fortunate enough to have time to do some of the ghost and cemetery tours, which I highly recommend. You can't come to New Orleans without looking at their historic and beautiful cemeteries.
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NOLA taught me life-lessons. I learned useful cooking techniques there, and discovered an interest in architecture in the French Quarter, where I also found that my tolerance for booze isn't limitless. I've been scammed in New Orleans; f锚ted there; fallen in sort-of-love.
While some of my favorites among New Orleans' restaurants and amusements have disappeared, more have hung around. Here, though it's by no means exhaustive, I offer a list of solid recommendations for first-time visitors to the City.
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DINING: Reserve when possible, and plan to stand in line, anyway. Hours, specials, wait times, cash-or-credit are all worth asking about. Service is often what you'd expect from kids that don't think "server" is a real job.
– BREAKFAST –
Restaurant Stanley https://www.yelp.com/biz/stanley-new-orleans
– Eggs Stanley – cornmeal-crusted oysters, poached eggs, Canadian bacon and Creole Hollandaise on a toasted English muffin
– Eggs Benedict Poor Boy – poached eggs, smoked Canadian bacon and Creole Hollandaise on toasted French bread
– BRUNCH –
Atchafalaya Restaurant https://www.yelp.com/biz/atchafalaya-restaurant-new-orleans
– Eggs Atchafalaya – fried green tomatoes, poached eggs, jumbo lump crab, Hollandaise
– Duck Hash – duck confit, blackberries, mangos, poached eggs, Hollandaise, bacon vinaigrette
– LUNCH –
Mandina's Restaurant https://www.yelp.com/biz/mandinas-restaurant-new-orleans
– Half & Half poboy (fried shrimp & oyster), because Domalise's doesn't serve turtle soup
– Soft Shell Crab, any style
And then, since a 7-minute walk won't kill you, go to:
Angelo Brocato's Italian Ice Cream https://www.yelp.com/biz/angelo-brocato-new-orleans
– Sample everything
– Eat a granita (Sicilian ice), made with whatever fruit's in season
– Take home a sfogliatelle
—–
Parkway Bakery and Tavern https://www.yelp.com/biz/parkway-bakery-and-tavern-new-orleans
– Have a Fried Oyster poboy (dressed) (Mon. & Wed. only)
– Otherwise, have a Roast Beef poboy, …"soaked in savory, brown gravy…"
—–
Cochon Butcher https://www.yelp.com/biz/cochon-butcher-new-orleans-2?hrid=2Ug8Ot3qxmJ7nLGDx0IUaQ
– Pork Belly with Mint + Cucumber on White
– Cubano
– Mac-n-Cheese
– DINNER –
Irene's Cuisine https://www.yelp.com/biz/irenes-cuisine-new-orleans
– Try the specials
– Any seafood with a Creole/Italian preparation
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The Galley Seafood https://www.yelp.com/biz/the-galley-metairie-3?hrid=2EuV9krMK3UX0MtGcYXYNw
– Try the specials
– Boiled crawfish, crab, shrimp (as available)
—–
Crabby Jack's https://www.yelp.com/biz/crabby-jacks-new-orleans
– Next-level poboys
– Pick one and have fun
– LATE-NIGHT –
Verti Marte https://www.yelp.com/biz/verti-marte-new-orleans-2
– It's 3:30 in the morning and you're drunk-dialing a deli. Order a bunch of stuff, and remember to tip!
– 24-hour delivery
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FUN. New Orleans is 300 years old. Parts of the City are relatively well-preserved, and it's flat, so walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District – even through cemeteries – are popular.
NOTE: Assholes take bus tours to look at people hurt by Katrina. Don't be an asshole.
—–
MORE FUN. Louisiana offers over 400 festivals per year. Go to one. I once danced with a Queen, at the Plaquemines Parish Fair and Orange Festival https://www.yelp.com/biz/plaquemines-parish-fair-and-orange-festival-buras-triumph
Also, it sounds clich茅, but do the Honey Island Swamp Tour; ask for Brian Baldwin's boat https://www.yelp.com/biz/honey-island-swamp-tours-slidell-6
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REAL GOOD FUN. Much of the live music you'll hear in New Orleans is unique to the City. You may need to adjust, unless you played a brass instrument in high school.
Local bands play all over town, at venues like:
– d.b.a. (Frenchmen Street)
– Vaughan's Lounge (Bywater)
– Tipitina's Uptown
– Mid-City Rock n Bowl
– Howlin' Wolf (Warehouse District)
But the club doesn't matter. You can preview bands on YouTube; check their schedules; and hear them wherever they are. Here are some favorites:
– Big Sam's Funky Nation
– Trombone Shorty
– Dumpstaphunk
– Bucktown All-Stars
– Galactic
– Kermit Ruffins & The BBQ Swingers
=====LOCALS =====
Don't @ me.
I know you had a better poboy/pizza/paneed redfish somewhere not on my list.
I do not care.
You lucky bastards live in New Orleans full-time. You can seek perfection, and in the meantime, enjoy your close calls.
Tourists, on the other hand, have but hours to find the good stuff, and as they look, they have no frame of reference other than their own preferences. So let them like what they like. My list will help them. I am the Tourist Whisperer.
Plus, I've been running around New Orleans for longer than most of you have lived. If you make me mad, I'll post an updated list that includes places you do NOT want outsiders to know about.
ox
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In 2012 I began yelping regularly. It was sparked by a road trip that took us to Orlando, Panama City Beach & our first ever family visit to New Orleans. So, it seems not only nostalgic, but a perfect pausing point to my many years on yelp by dedicating my 1,000th review to the city that started my passion for writing reviews in the first place.
As an NFL rival city, I'm almost always rooting against you! As a city on the mend after one of the worst natural disaster ever, I've cheered for you at the top of my lungs. I've only got three visits under my belt, but I hope to add many more. Although there are many foods I still want to eat and so many sites I still want to see, I am satisfied with my experiences so far:
THE EXPERIENCE
+ I've eaten deliciously addictive beignets at the world-famous Caf茅 du Monde, which left my lips looking like I was on crack.
+ I've had the Chicken Bonne Femme off the secret menu at the second oldest restaurant in NOLA, TuJagues (opened in 1856). It was one of my favorite reviews to write!
++ I've had two delicious po' boys @ Johnny's, the fried shrimp and the Johnny's Special which included grilled ham & roast beef smothered in love! Still my personal favorite.
+ Most recently I ate UH-mazing fried chicken at the one and only Willie Mae's Scotch House where many celebrities have also eaten.
– I've had what some consider the quintessential po' boy, the "All that Jazz" @ Verti Marte which includes turkey, ham, fried shrimp, Swiss cheese, American cheese, tomato, mushrooms and "WOW" sauce.
++ I've enjoyed the best tasting char-grilled oysters of my life @ Drago's, which also happens to be the third yelp review I ever wrote (July 2011).
+ I've eaten a Muffuletta sandwich, which was a goal of mine after watching a show called 'Sandwiches you will like' on PBS late one night in 2002 (10 years earlier). I was so proud to have my first bite of this classic NOLA sammie at the very place that originally created it back in 1906 – Central Grocery Co.
– Locals convinced me to step out of my comfort zone & try turtle soup, a NOLA delicacy! I gave it a go at several restaurants in an attempt to like it, but sadly, I never could!
+ Another item I saw on TV that I just had to try was the Alligator Cheesecake @ Jacques-Imo's Caf茅. It was here that I had my first Louisiana red beans n' rice as well as a stuffed pork chop.
+ I've rode the streetcars where one of the drivers let my youngest son ring the bell when crossing an intersection.
+ I've enjoyed a bag of hot pralines.
– I've witnessed a man passed out on a curb with half his body in the street and half on the sidewalk. A puddle of water all around his head indicated someone threw water on him to wake him up, but to no success.
++ I watched a street band jam for hours as crowds gathered to second line dance. One of my all-time favorite memories is watching the police horses dance to the music.
+ I've enjoyed the quirky street performers, from the ones that stand motionless for hours to the ones that paint their body silver or gold to sing & dance. I've seen a transformer as well as a guy who looked like a baby in a car seat.
+ I've enjoyed the architecture and historic-ness of the city and played in some of its most historic squares
+ I've stood at the mighty Mississippi River & watched steamboats pass on one side while an orchestra played near Jackson Square on the other.
+ I've been out on a real shrimping boat and stuck my hand in a huge catch of shrimp & sardines. However, no one told me there might also be crabs in the mix and how much they hurt when they latch-on!
+ I've fished by the mouth of the Mississippi and road a boat thru the locks.
– I've smelled strong fragrances of urine in the oddest places! Even saw a woman who'd visibly pooped on herself sitting on a park bench.
++ I've toured bayou swamps on a fan boat, held a baby alligator and watched a massive gator come almost completely out of the water just to eat a hot dog!
– I've paid HEFTY valet charges!
+ I've crossed the USA's longest bridge: Lake Pontchartrain Causeway (24 miles long)
– and I've had to cover my children's eyes on more than one occasion, especially on Bourbon Street! Trust me, I've seen some wild STUFF!
WHAT'S NEXT
Maybe someday I will return to experience a Mardi Gras festival, or eat more po' boys @ Parkway Bakery & Tavern or Domilise's. I'd love to visit the WWII museum, a historic cemetery, take a family pic under the trees @ Oak Alley Plantation and finally make it to the Audubon Nature Institute. Whatever is in store for my future visit, I'm sure this city will make it highly entertaining!
In the meantime, it's been fun yelping, but my time as your Compliment Santa has come to an end. I just have one more review (my 100th update) to post. I'm sure I'll write another review in the future when I visit someplace too good not to share, but for now I'm going to take a very long yelpcation to pursue other goals.
2017/148
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What can I say that hasn't already been said? What can be mentioned that hasn't already been mentioned? No matter how much time you have spent here or have lived here, something is always changing. That is the only constant, is that it is always changing. I guess that can be said of any major city. New Orleans is a major city that doesn't have the population it once had, or that of other cities. Each neighborhood is different. Mardi Gras is its own beast. Almost every weekend is some new festival, some new restaurant opening, an old favorite closing.
Since Hurricane Katrina, there has been a resurgence to restore the housing, which may not have been in the best condition just prior to the event and was definitely in a slump after. I came down to NOLA after Katrina when I was in the Army to help knock on doors. Let me tell you, that was horrifying and something I never want to see again. I would rather deploy back to a 3rd world country again. Recovery is always a long and involved process, and there is still so much that needs to be done.
Having been a visitor many times over the years to NOLA, and moving down here 6 years ago, I can definitely see the changes over the years. Crime is an issue here, but I think the main problem is how it is framed. The neighborhoods and wards are distinct and individual and can change from block to block. Yes, there are "groups" that gather within each neighborhood, and the police and political leaders want to classify some of them as gangs. They may be a gang in some cases, but to paint it with a broad brush that is derogatory and is detrimental in so many ways that isn't fair and tends to denigrate the culture and the people. I realize it is hard to define something you know nothing about, and I am by no means an intellectual, but something needs to change if we expect to break cycles of poverty, violence and disenfranchisement. Easier said than done, and I have no clue as to how to do this or where to begin.
There are many resources here, such as the Preservation Resource Center (https://www.yelp.com/biz/preservation-resource-center-new-orleans) that help to guide and build, as partners and is one of the better not-for-profits around. There are many other centers around to help out.
There are many museums, places to eat and things to do. The Audubon has the aquarium, insectarium and zoo. Tom Hanks and the WWII museum that you could spend all day in and not see it all.
The streets are bad, potholes, flooding and so much more. It seems as if the cycle of construction on roads is endless and within a few years of being repaired, they are damaged again. The education (K-12) could use some positive attention and better standards to help break the cycle of poverty.
New Orleans is a diverse city that one can live a lifetime in and never get past the tip of the iceberg. There are many cities, but none quite like her.